Domaine Roulot, Auxey-Duresses Blanc, Burgundy, France, 2022
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Overview of the Wine
Guy Roulot, a legendary producer of some of the finest Meursaults, if not some of the world’s finest white wines, took his family’s small production domaine to stardom. Guy’s marriage to Geneviève Coche and his own hard work added more prime parcels to the family’s holdings, which he vinified and bottled separately – a novelty for a domaine which had been distilling, rather than vinifying, their grapes just a generation before. As a result, Domaine Roulot has become the master of the lieu-dit, not to mention the five premier cru parcels they farm in Meursault and Monthelie. Guy’s sudden death in 1982 left the family in transition, as his son, Jean-Marc was in Paris pursuing a career in acting. A series of three winemakers aided in the changeover until 1989, when Jean-Marc was at last ready to take on the direction of the estate.
Since then, Jean-Marc’s progress has brought even more notice to a domaine that had already enjoyed a great reputation. The wines of Domaine Roulot are now among the most sought after wines in all of Burgundy. Jean-Marc has been successful in fine-tuning the domaine’s particular, stand-out style. While Domaine Roulot had once pioneered the single-vineyard bottlings of Meursault, they were now influencing other domaines to follow suit, thereby raising the stakes in this exalted appellation. What sets the domaine even further apart is Jean-Marc’s commitment to a bright, chiseled, thoroughbred style of Meursault, while many other wines of this village tend towards richness and concentration. Jean-Marc’s wines certainly express a certain depth and sumptuousness thanks to the appellation’s terroir, however his wines also show focus and restraint. Their elegance and amazing precision lend themselves to long aging in the cellars. Jean-Marc loves cooking and believes the strong mineral backbone of his wines and their fresh acidity marry well with food. This is why one is more likely to find their wines in restaurants rather than in wine shops.
Organic and Biodynamic.
Grape / Blend
Chardonnay
Origin
Mersault, Burgundy, France
Winemaker's Tasting Notes
Roulot's Auxey-Duresses parcels are located north of Vireuils & Tessons, where the slope turns from east-facing to north-facing. While the cooler micro-climate makes the Auxey-Duresses slightly more austere than the Meursaults, the difference is not as great as the different appellation would make it seem. Auxey-Duresses and the Meursaults all have the same vinification + elevage. Vinification: Hand harvested, pneumatic pressing, natural yeast fermentation and 11-12 months elevage in barrel, followed by 6-7 months in tank. Fined with tiny amounts of caseine and bentonite, very lightly filtered before bottling. Sulfur is adjusted to 20mg/L free during elevage to 30mg/L free at bottling.
89-91 Points - Burghound
90% from Les Hautés and the remainder from Les Fosses. Here too there is a smoky component lurking in the background of the more floral and citrus-suffused white peach-scented nose. There is a lovely sense of tension to the equally attractively textured medium weight flavors that exude more evident minerality on the youthfully austere, clean, sleek and nicely dry finale that is firm enough to repay 6 to 8 years of keeping. Worth considering.*Burghound Outstanding Top Value
89-91 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A blend of Les Hautées and La Fosse, climats that form part of the more northerly-facing continuation of Meursault's hillside, the 2022 Auxey-Duresses Blanc exhibits more texture than its Monthélie counterpart, bursting with aromas of pear, peach, white flowers and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and satiny palate. Jean-Marc Roulot seemed happy with his 2022 portfolio, a vintage that has the merits of combining high quality with normal quantity, narrowly avoiding spring frosts, thanks to dry, windy weather. The order of the day here is crushing before pneumatic pressing, with pressure increasing in small increments to deliver a large juice yield for comparatively little pressure. In the cellar, as has been the case for several years, Roulot is using less new oak, adding ceramic vessels and foudres. Everything I tasted was, as usual, on the lees in stainless steel, where the wines spend six months after their first year in barrel. The other news at this address, even if it's outside the purview of this publication, is that Roulot is producing a series of eaux de vie de Marc de Bourgogne from his different lieux-dits, which makes for a fascinating comparative tasting, just as it's fascinating to compare their vinous equivalents side by side.
Product size: 750ml