Müller-Catoir Bürgergarten, 'Im Breumel' Grosses Gewächs, Riesling, Pfalz, Germany, 2021

Overview of the Wine
Family owned since 1774 with 9 generations tending the vines, the winery is now run by Philipp David Catoir. Martin Franzen, hailing from the Mosel, with experience as head of operations at Schlossgut Diel in the Nahe and Gut Nagelsforst in Baden, took over winemaking responsibility from Hans-Günther Schwarz in 2001. In an effort to showcase terroir and varietal character, Müller-Catoir has adopted the following philosophy of winegrowing: “Vines were grown by natural methods with organic fertilization, permanent green cutting that gets more and more radical every summer, and ever-greater selective harvesting with hand-picking of grapes for even the most “basic” kabinett wine – all these measures cannot help but produce only a small yield of wines with a mineral note, a filigree acidity structure and exotic fruit aromas.” The estate began an organic conversion in 2007 and completed their first organic vintage in 2009. The vineyards in Haardt are composed of primary rock (urgestein) and sandstone, with an increasing proportion of gravel lower on the slopes. Vineyards of Gimmeldingen contain more loess and sand, while the vineyards of Mussbach are the most gravelly. Müller-Catoir also bottles several “micro parcels”; one of which, the Breumel in den Mauern, is a monopole inside the Burgergarten which was first planted 700 years ago, and is also one of the oldest vineyards in the Pfalz.

Müller-Catoir was a pioneer of reductive winemaking in Germany. The estate implements a gentle crush, a long skin contact, slow gentle pressing, and then ferments at warmer than customary fermentation temperatures in stainless steel. The wine is racked only once and very late. Müller-Catoir produces wines of outstanding transparency and density, and remains emblematic of Riesling at its most sophisticated.

Vegan.

Grape / Blend
Riesling

Origin
Pfalz, Germany

Winemaker's Tasting Notes
The age-worthy Riesling wines from this prime section of the Haardt Bürgergarten are characterized by the optimal balance between a concentrated Riesling fruit, lingering minerality, a delicate elegance and an elaborately interwoven, long finish - Riesling to perfection.

98 Points - James Suckling (2020)
Although the intensity of this very youthful dry riesling’s bouquet knocks you back in your seat, the ripe white-peach, tangerine and passion-fruit aromas are accompanied by a slew of delicate, floral notes. Tightly focused with diamond brightness on the concentrated yet sleek palate, this ends in a finish of breathtaking purity. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

96 Points - James Suckling
Still extremely youthful, this 2021 riesling GG is going to take a while to come out of its shell. However, the combination of concentrated citrusy fruit and fresh herb finesse is already very apparent. Bone dry, but beautifully balanced and polished at the very long finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

94 Points - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Catoir's Haardter Riesling 2021 Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" GG VDP. Grosse Lage opens with a deep, clear and aromatic yet also elegant, pure, refined and complex bouquet of ripe and juicy fruits intermingled with iodine and even some flinty notes. Juicy, round and savory on the palate, with animating saline and grippy minerality, this is a dense, tight and structured dry Breumel Riesling that shouldn't be on sale at this early stage since the very best is still to come here. The wine was still very young at the GG tasting in Wiesbaden in August when it showed a good yet still robust finish, but it was only slightly more open and refined in December this year. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork stopper. Rating: 94+

Product size: 750ml