Domaine Robert-Denogent, Pouilly-Fuisse La Croix, Vieilles Vignes, Burgundy, France, 2022

Overview of the Wine
When first tasting the wines of Domaine Robert-Denogent, it is essential to put aside any preconceived notions about the young, over-cropped whites of southern Burgundy. These are wines of a much different class, whose reflection of terroir is one more likely found farther north in the prestigious Côte d’Or. Jean-Jacques Robert took over five hectares of his grandfather’s vines in the Mâconnais just outside the village of Fuissé after finishing law school in 1988. Though most of the harvest had always been sold off to the cooperatives, the small parcels that made up the domaine were already understood to enjoy unique microclimates, producing Pouilly-Fuissés of great pedigree. Jean-Jacques soon came under the influence of two ardent defenders of terroir, the great master of Morgon, Marcel Lapierre, and American importer, Kermit Lynch. Little by little, Jean-Jacques has introduced radical changes to the domaine (while staying faithful to his grandfather’s wisdom about the complexity of the land), finally realizing its full potential. He is now joined by his son, Nicolas.

The Roberts’ individual vineyard parcels are planted with old vines (remarkably so!) on varied soils of granite, schist, limestone, clay, and gravel. Naturally reduced yields imbue the grapes with terrific concentration. The wines undergo a long, slow élévage in barrel that lasts anywhere from fifteen to eighteen months. They are bottled after two winters in barrel, a treatment more common (yet still far from the norm) in the Côte d’Or, and something that really sets them apart in the Mâconnais. At a fraction of the price of the appellations of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, to which they are often compared by aficionados and critics alike, the wines of Robert-Denogent offer tremendous value, wonderful richness, and impressive complexity. An added attraction for some—they age sooner than their counterparts to the north.

Biodynamic.

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Winemaker
Jean-Jacques Robert

Grape / Blend
Chardonnay

Origin
Burgundy, France

Tasting Notes
Bursting with energy and joy, this wine is bound to bring out the best of your inner bon vivant. From some gnarly old vines high on a hill, vinified by the most jubilant family (whose joie de vivre somehow gets fully infused in all the wines they make), it's then matured for over 30 months in barrel before reaching our shores. Big, rich, and tasty, yet easy (perhaps too easy) to tipple—one bottle may not suffice.

90 Points - Burghound
"Ripe aromas of both white and yellow peach, spice, orange peel and petrol are complemented by equally dense, rich and powerful larger-bodied flavors that possess fine depth and persistence on the robust and mildly rustic finale. This is not a PF of refinement but it certainly doesn't lack for character."

Product size:  750ml