Overview of the Wine
It must be impossible to praise Groffier’s wines in a way that hasn’t been done before. In every recent vintage, this domaine has produced complex, delicious, lushly textured wines that are immediately appealing, but also have the balance to improve for many years. So it was no surprise that in the 6th Edition of Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide, Groffier was ranked as one of the top four Burgundy producers of the late 1990s. While Robert and his son Serge let their grapes ripen longer than most producers, their methods are traditional. They severely limit yields and then meticulously sort the grapes after harvest. There is no strict formula for new oak or the amount of time each wine spends in barrel.
They check the wines regularly during every stage of development and let their palates guide them. Domaine Groffier also owns some fantastic vineyards and they really maximize the quality by using the Cordon Royat method of training the vines. This increasingly rare technique reduces yields and produces very concentrated grapes. The two Grand Crus are always some of the top representations of their respective vineyards. Groffier also owns the largest single parcel of the unofficial Grand Cru Chambolle “Les Amoureuses.” Even the Bourgogne comes from superior vineyards – one parcel is next to the Grand Cru Clos Vougeot and the other is adjacent to the vineyards of Morey-St-Denis.
Grape / Blend
A classically backward and inexpressive young Bonnes Mares nose of blueberry and violets that display an interesting note of bitter cherry that can also be found on the round, rich, muscular and taut full-bodied flavors that are quite firmly structured and wrapped in a linear, intense and long finish. Like the Amoureuses, the flavors and finish are beautifully focused and while quite focused, there is god mid-palate fat to buffer the not inconsiderable tannic spine.
97 Points - Decanter
Sand, clay and limestone soils make up the terroir of this 1ha parcel on the Chambolle side of the grand cru. The vines may be 80 years old, but this is not a powerful expression of the grand cru. Floral, juicy, sumptuous and exotic, it has a core of sweet bramble and raspberry fruit. Beautifully judged from a brilliant winemaker.
94-96 Points - Vinous
The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is matured in one-third new oak and includes 100% whole bunch fruit. It has a precocious, extrovert bouquet - which is exactly what I demand from my Bonnes-Mares - featuring intense black and blueberry fruit and hints of violet mixed with hoisin. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, saturated tannin that lends this Bonnes-Mares a fleshy, almost corpulent mouthfeel. There is great volume here and yet ample freshness and focus toward the pastille-like finish. Superb.
Product size: 750ml